Saturday, August 31, 2013

Sights and Snackin', a photoblog of Jlem living


No filters, no resizing, and generally terrible lighting document my first week in Jerusalem!



Burgers Bar, meatfest for the first night in Jerusalem

As good as Waffle Bar, the
dairy competitor restaurant

That kind of Old City beauty

Halva! So much Halva!

From the secret women's cave on the side of the wall...

This view always reminds me of the Lion King:
 look to the horizon, Simba!
A model of the Holy Temple, in
case you're planning to rebuild it 
My unofficial city guide Mitzi, 
in my local park, 
Jerusalem's version of the highline 



Shalom L'Kulam (Hello Everyone!)

I've been a bit out of touch, but not for lack of thinking of you all - I'm just either sleeping or running around Israel, and running into everyone everywhere. Also, I'm busy contemplating enormous lessons of land, Torah, life and identity. 

Sounds good, right? It is. I enrolled in the Pardes Institute's Elul Program, a one-month Jewish studies seminar at this unique egalitarian yeshiva. You can read more about it on their website, Pardes.org.il .

The people at Pardes create a warm, but certainly eclectic community that is open-minded but not pluralistic. There is an emphasis on understanding Jewish law, but liberal enforcement of how it is observed: no dress code, no mandatory services or prayers - just a will to study rigorously and think thoughtfully. 

At our opening circle, about 60 of us, faculty and students, went around and answered where we've been, where we're going, and one thing not on our résumé. We had bluegrass musicians, fourth year students, and the Monopoly champion of the Bronx. My fun fact: I haven't slept in the same bed for over a week in eight months. This is my eighth country in that time...and I'm really excited to be settled in Chicago.

But for now, I'm here. So what have I been doing that I'm too busy to blog each day?

Eating many Marzipan rugelach, which are mushy for the bakers pour hot sugar on top.
Bought groceries, read: bread, pickles, turkey and yogurt
Explored the shuk, sipping lemonana (mint lemonade) and not being overwhelmed because this market is tiny compared to Istanbul's
Had a banana chocolate waffle
Listened to the Muslim call to prayer while standing on the Women's section looking at the Kotel.Ran into three camp staff at a restaurant, a bakery and a street corner
Watched a Ted talk and learned relevant Jewish texts at the program orientation
Painted a bottle and turned it into a vase, while playing Jewish geography with other Pardes students
Got sunburnt having a picnic potluck at the tayelet (overlook) with 55 Pardes people, and a few days before, spent midnight there with two Germany friends, watching the city lights and talking about deep things.
Watched the sunset on a friends rooftop overlooking the city and counted three stars, signaling the start of a great week.

Some things I've been thinking about:
Why people cry at the Western Wall, and why I don't
Why America feels the need to attack Syria, and why I'm more annoyed than scared
Why men and women maybe probably should pray and study separately
Why I can't stop eating those rugelach

I have this amazing phone plan where I can call America for free, plus unlimited text call and data for just $15 (Verizon,you're seriously the worst), so I am able to be way too connected while here. But the nature of my program puts me in a classroom for ten hours a day, deciphering Hebrew texts word by word, starting tomorrow morning. This will be a challenge, as I never formally studied Hebrew and realized this week that I can't say more than three-word sentences. I'm struggling to reconcile my knowledge of Judaism with the lack of Hebrew. Hopefully, this program will begin to close the gap and ameliorate the dissonance.

On an unrelated but important note: our first alma mater game day kick-off isn't for a few hours, I'm ten hours ahead of California and won't be staying up so there is only one way to end this post:
Go 'cats! 


Tuesday, August 27, 2013

How I spent my first 36 hours in Israel...

Hopped off the plane at TLV with a dream and a neon zip-up. The dream? Spend one amazing, life-changing, unforgettable month in Israel. 

First step: take a taxi. At 4 am. To a place I've never been that basically rhymes with Banana. I used what I call 'camp Hebrew' to communicate with the driver. I've learned numbers from page-calling in services, and I know directions from a totally annoying song 6 year olds sang for two months straight. I arrived to Raanana by 4:30 and after giving up on arguing about being a block away from the destination, I rolled my suitcases right up to the Peleg house. Seeing Maya's shining face, in all of our tired glory, made me so happy! To land on a plane doesn't make you feel totally at home, but to be welcomed into someone's arms surely does.

I spent the subsequent several hours sleeping off the sleepless night (I couldn't resist Iron Man 3, and the flight was worse than RyanAir - loud, cramped and bumpy). Around 11 am, Maya and I made moves to the bus station toward Herzliya - a beach city about 15 minutes away, but an hour by bus. We caught up on the 48 hours of camp I missed, and swam around on a perfect empty stretch of ocean. Clear turquoise warm water, nice light waves, and enough sun to maybe make me not glow in the dark with paleness. Back at home, I organized myself and enjoyed family dinner with the Pelegs, shakshuka and nachos, the logical combination for an Israeli family who had lived in Mexico. 

In the morning, another camp buddy, Rena, picked me up and I got to spend the morning with her and her 4-year-old cutie. Through a boreka and coffee, and a trip to pick her boys up from school, I got a glimpse of what moving to Israel looks like. Don't worry, it's not a serious consideration yet. She dropped me at the bus station which was so amazing because I couldn't have walked my 40 kilos of stuff a whole kilometer by myself. 

This post makes it clear that, I love camp, working there was a great decision, and everyone from camp is just like a fairy godmother to me.

This trend continued when I arrived in Jerusalem (fast forward about 3 hours), and I was walking down Rivka street with all my junk, and I run into my camp friend Dita on the corner. Yes. Third camp sighting in a day. She helped me with my stuff, and to find Candace, my Northwestern friend who I'm staying with while here. Coincidentally, they are in the same year-long study program at the Pardes Institute for Jewish Studies, where I will be doing a three-week program while I'm here.

We got to Candace's apartment and I went into an unpacking frenzy, excited to suddenly feel settled somewhere for more than a few nights. In my organized chaos, I met Candace's roommate Molly, a Barnard alum who seems superchill and excited to start the Pardes program, too. It's lovely to be in the company of people who all have the same passion for learning, and I'm so lucky to have had that in Germany and again now in Jerusalem. 

Speaking of Germany, I was delighted when my friend from the Germany trip, Mitzi, asked if I had dinner plans. I did not. We coordinated to meet on Emek Refaim, which coincidentally translates to 'Germany Colony' and is the happeningest boulevard in this part of town. On my walk, two wonderful things dawned on me:
1. All of these restaurants say Kosher because they are Kosher and I don't have to menu-scan! I can eat everything! Omnomnom!
2. These buildings, they're made of stone that's beautiful and so old. Thousands of years old. I'm at the epicenter of humanity's history. Cool.

We settled on Burgers Bar, an American classic on Emek. Splitting lamb sliders and a schnitzel wrap was arguably the best decision I have jointly made in a very long time. Oh, the satisfaction of a serious meat meal in such warm company! Mitzi is just the most kind, adorable, understanding and thoughtful human and she was such a good sounding board for all of my excitement and anxieties about being here. 

We walked home, across a converted train track that's now a park, and then I had tea with Candace, made my bed, wrote this blog, and realized I am again, exhausted. You might even be exhausted, too, after reading this. 

Things I didn't mention yet, in pairs: 
There were two very smelly men on the bus in Jerusalem, so I changed seats twice. Foreigners and deodorant have a weird relationship.
My morning playdate had two shokos (delicious chocolate milk) today, and she's therefore the luckiest four-year-old in the world.
How I struggled to go through a turnstile with my giant duffel, a rolly suitcase and a tote bag (I ended up getting both in AND out. 
All of the ridiculous questions security asked me on the way to Israel, and the zero questions asked on the way out of the airport....
My reactions to either Miley Cyrus' VMA performance and/or how I feel about Syria right now.

All I can think about right now is, well, not a lot anymore because I'm physically and mentally drained and as so many others, this blog will now end with a comment about how I am falling asleep.

Sunday, August 25, 2013

Feeling Pragroovy

I can officially put the wacky fun attitude back into my writing. Whee! Thanks to recommendations from Sally Kaplan and Jess Feiwus, I found myself heading to Café Lucerna for some creative beverage drinking. I took two trams on my way to Wencelas Square, which isn’t far away at all, but I have a terrible blister between my big and second toe and couldn’t bear to walk on it extra. 

On my second tram, I was surrounded by the Breakfast Club of 2013, a collective of college students speaking about fratty and sarcastic things in American accents. I asked them if they were studying abroad, and was hit with a frantic wave of tragic jealousy. As they got off, I wished them a great semester and told them it will blow their mind. They have no idea what’s coming. Then, I realized I’m kind of mini-studying abroad, and in this year, I will have spent 3.5 months abroad anyway.

When I got off the tram at Vasclavke Namesti, I saw no Café Lucerna in sight, just a cavernous creepy indoor mall hallway labeled Palac Lucerna. After following it a short way, I ended up in a grand hall of marble and cupid moldings and stained glass, oh my! At the epicenter of this domed mythical consumerist mecca, an enormous statue of an upside-down horse with a man riding it straddling it’s tummy is suspended by ropes. It’s quite odd, but likely famous. Though all the shops are closed, many tourists waltz in to snap a quick picture, and two security guards mull about the place, looking utterly bored.

I ascended a marble staircase to Kavaza Lucerna, the palace’s coffee house. Wham, I’m in the 1940s. Pleather chairs, people smoking, and funky mini chandeliers littering the dimly-lit bar.
The cutest waiter in all of Prague, with shaggy wavy hair and thick black rimmed glasses locked eyes with me when I came in. I had this fleeting thought that we would run away off to the Black Sea and frolic in the waves. It’s a rainy day here, so it seemed like a great idea. I half-apologized when ordering 
from him in English, but my Czech is still non-existent.

I grabbed a table with a good view of a painting, the bar and the giant hanging horse. I ordered an Italian hot chocolate with homemade whipped cream.  I checked in to my flight to Israel for tonight. I chose pictures to make a photoblog for each city, and then I wrote this blog.

Every time he walks by, I think I fall more in love with his doofy smile and lilting accent. He looks genuinely happy to work alone in a largely-deserted ancient coffee shop that attracts mostly tourists. 
Maybe I’d be happy just staying here, staring at that big dead horse too. Maybe it’d be better without the horse.

I feel like I got my groove back ‘cause this place is the ultimate groovy. 

Updates from cafe #2, called Bakeshop: A young man sits across from me with a soup and a chicken skewer. He asks me if I know where to buy crystal souvenirs. I say no. He asks me where I'm from. I ask him where he is from. He says Iran, but studying in Australia, and went to a conference in Krakow. He asks me what I know about Iran, and I say I once I watched a video about public transportation there. I am reminded of my friend Adineh who is also from Iran, but now living in Chile.  He asks  if I know anyone who was affected by September 11. I tell him I do know people who were killed, and that my whole community, and whole country was and is deeply affected. Then he asks me if I am comfortable with Australian accents. I tell him I like them. He informs me that he has a hard time with them, and that there is little nightlife in suburban Australia. I am no longer interested in conversing. He keeps going.

I do not tell him I am going to Israel tonight. The world is a complicated place.

Picturesque Prague



Me in the grotto gardens of Wallenstein Palace

Owls!

Pinterest for my future home

Me, feeling right at home

Emily, I'm redoing our apartment like this...

This is how you make an entrance.

The Senate estate, my future summer home

I will replicate all of these idols
and make them for my summer palace.

My other summer palace.

The view from my writing nook.



There is a castle in a cloud.

Breakfast from Paul in the Platz

The Wildcats over the city

Just a usual golden eagle duo.

It's just so breathtakingly fairytale-like...

Attention. This is my favorite cathedral ever!





Europe's best cathedral St. Vitus



St. Vitus in your face

Guards looking bored

Everything looks like a palace.

Writing on the wall - names of all the
Czech Jews who disappeared
Prague's hottest boyband!


All the palaces are collapsing on me!

View from my apartment - tres chic!

Old Town Square

Jerusalem Synagogue, the first thing
 I would randomly see

Cliffs and towns on the way to Prague
Trains in Europe, man...

Dresden, or Dulock? A Photographic Deluge

Dulock to the extreme

View from the Liebskind Void

I spy one yarmulke...

We nommed so hard... 

Ooooo.... Ahhhh

Booty booty booty booty rockin everywhere

Mitzi and I on a romantic date, during the walking tour

So absorbed by the tour. Or candy crush?

Who's that Spartan in my teepee? It's me, it's me!

King of the castle, king of the castle

Sometimes I take amazing pictures....


Dresden synagogue, inspired by the tabernacle



A gift from the Ibis Hotel,
after I got trapped in the elevator

Cuties under a fake ancient ceramic mural

IBM WWII machine? Tech consulting gets dangerous. (Military History Museum of Germany)
Happy yom taxidermy, Kochavim!