At 6:30 pm, I knew 7 o’clock services at the Spanish Synagogue weren’t going to happen
for me. So, around 7:45, Avi and I walked over to the Jewish Quarter where he went to the Old
New Synagogue which has housed prayer since 1280. I barely contemplated going through security and going in before I saw a streimel and just decided it was too much for an exhausted, irritable me to handle.
I ended up at the
nightclub-style Chabad where I ran into my Canadian acquaintance from the
morning tour. She was cute as can be and provided an excellent companion for
the city. The women’s side of the mechitzah offered one smile for every two
glares or blank stares. I was one of maybe 3 out of 30 women saying the words
out loud, and I couldn’t see anything from the back of the room mechitzah.
Still, the atmosphere was more positive than the 1280 synagogue would’ve been
and I wasn’t searched and interviewed on my way in, which is often the modern
process for getting into a synagogue during services in Europe. I looked at the sheytl (wig) fashions in the room and decided a long wavy one was the prettiest, but not so deceiving. There was a gorgeous blonde curly haired woman who mouthed the words of her prayers in an exquisite way and I think she is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen. The men's side had a wild mix of Israelis in jeans and young guys with fluffy beards and black hats. I wanted to stick around and get to know the mixed crowd.
After Chabad, I headed over to Dinitz for dinner. This
kosher restaurant basically hosts out-of-towners for Shabbat meals, providing
Israeli salads, an appetizer, main course, fruit salad – I was underwhelmed.
Apparently, most weeks there are 50 people and everyone sings and chats and it’s
so fun. Avi and I sat with a nice Israeli couple but at the end of the day, I
don’t have a lot in common with a mom and dad from a moshav near Ashdod. So, it
was kind of awkward to be on a double date with them but we all made the best
of it. When the room was full, no one knew how to initiate Kiddush and Motzi,
the prayers that lead to eating, so I used my finest Hillel skills and
peer-pressured Avi into leading the wine blessing for the whole room. I made an
announcement in English on how things would go, and made moves. But, no one was
friendly or appreciative or enthusiastic – it was a mixed crowd of Israelis and
older people and me. Ada and Alan from New Jersey who have kids in their 30s
sat next to us at a table over, and we ended up talking with them late into the
night. They were really interested in Avi’s professional work at the Israel
Action Network, and by 10:00 p.m., I was just kind of over the whole day and
couldn’t build up the positive, charming character I usually have. I felt like
an embittered introvert, and I probably wasn’t the world’s greatest company
through 11 p.m., but I did my best given my incorrigible state, complete with
upset stomach and lack of content with the dinner.
So, I got home, Facetimed with my parents who were buying
towels in Boston for Becca, who is starting college this week! And then I passed out. Highs and lows, it was
an interesting day and the afternoon was fabulous. I wish I could’ve just
stayed in the castle and played princess forever.
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